Cable routing

[Mfr]

Sorry 77Ahmp not 750! Right, finally got this lot finished first impressions are van starts a lot faster, in fact I'm having to learn to let go from starting position quicker before the engine ends up running the starter! Its mental what a difference good cables make. I got most of the parts from Altecautomotive, really helpful and quick. Most people won't include the busbar but I'm leaving room for an inverter at some point. All joints are soldered and crimped with heat shrink. I couldn't find glue type heat shrink so I just used super glue before heating the heat shrink (watch out for super glue burning off, really bad fumes). I put two cables from the busbar to the starter A to spread the load over a combined 70mm squared cable and B so the load goes through the two cables and not as much through the actual busbar plate, rated to 350AMP.

[Mfr]

Hmm, OK. I will have the 2 batt's + connected to the starter then move the alternator + cable to the starter motor so that charge goes more equally to both batteries. Sound OK? I can't think why not. My Brother's factory 2 battery system just has the second battery directly connected to the first battery. Has to be better than that.

Scratch that, on the factory setup both batteries go to starter its just that the second battery cable enters from behind and is hard to see (so to speak) need to be careful I don't say that 3 times or I'll summon BJT

[Kedishen]

Now if only I had about 10 metres of that starter cable...

[Mfr]

Update.. Borrowed an idea from the land rover lads and fitted a Anderson plug to make jump starting a bit easier, (not having to remove the induction pipe) also fitted a 20amp socket with in line fuse for the back. Best bit is people can't borrow my jump leads for 3 months any more