by cherniy_chack » Tue Apr 23, 2024 6:42 pm
On Lucas generators, the output voltage decreases over time due to poor quality voltage regulator relays and/or general contamination of the generator.
To replace the relay-controller, the generator must be removed, and the removed generator, if it is dirty, can be easily washed.
I have not noticed this with the Mitsubishi generator.
I recently exchanged for a new spherical expansion tank
old and dirty, but on MK3!
I remember the school chemistry course very well and know how to wash off rust in a plastic tank.
You need to pump a hot solution of any acid through it.
But I decided to ask Google how to wash the tank. I found several videos, I liked one, although the author at the beginning of the video shows an old dirty tank, and at the end shows a new one. Not washed, but new. Viewers also see this and comment on the deception accordingly. In the video, the author simply puts a dirty tank in a cold acid solution, and then takes out another, new one.
I liked the chemicals that the author used - sulfamic acid and sodium pyrosulfate.
I prescribed and received these drugs via the Internet, took from a neighbor a new heating element for an automatic washing machine, an additional pump for the heating system of Russian minibuses and a plastic bucket.
I dissolved the chemicals in cold water, lowered the old, cracked expansion tank into the solution, lowered the heating element into the solution and started the circulation of the acid solution from the bucket through the pump into the tank and then back into the bucket.
After about half an hour, the solution heated up to about 60...70 degrees Celsius and the pump stopped pumping the solution.
I took the defective tank, cleanly washed from rust, out of the bucket.
The experiment was a success, but why do I need a clean tank with a crack?
The next day I removed the dirty but intact tank from the car, put it in a bucket of solution, and lowered the heating element into the bucket. For better cleaning, I often lifted the tank and lowered it again - if there is no circulation, then there is no reaction of the acid with rust.
I disassembled the pump, it turned out that the acid had eaten the nut that fixed the impeller to the shaft and the impeller was simply hanging in the housing.
Soon the heating element began to hiss and foam suspiciously, and the solution stopped heating. It turned out that the acid had eaten the protective tube of the heating element and current flowed from the input pins through the solution.
I had to pour coarse salt into the tank and shake it in my hands for several minutes, and so on twice.
But as a result, I managed to almost perfectly clean the expansion tank of rust!
And now a little accounting.
I bought a new spherical tank with a new lid for 800 hryvnia.
Chemicals with delivery cost 300 hryvnia. A new heating element costs 350 hryvnia. The pump cannot be repaired, a new one costs 550...600 hryvnia.
I could buy another spherical tank and 5 liters of antifreeze...
