MK7 2.2 injector unscewing in Head

[nicwest]

Mark, they certainly worked then! It as the fittings I was after as much as anything, plus when I count workshop time and materials it looked like a bargain.
But it wasn't!

Managed to shear off my new special 3 pin adaptor for unscrewing the body. Managed to get the pins out so may have another go with that route.

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In the mean time I applied hammer, heat , Wd 40, and chisel : it still won't unscrew.

Not sure if it is the inner body with the 3 holes that is meant to unscrew or the whole threaded portion that goes into the main cast body?

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Anybody know?.


Plus the slide hammer will need modifying as the slide is too long and will hit the bulkhead even with the clever swivel adaptor it comes with. Hopefully.there will be enough stroke to get it out.

[metalworker0]

As ive shown, you can make a slide hammer out if anything...you could even use coat hanger wire ...wrap it around the whole body of the injector ..attach to home made slide hammer, and bang away ..think that injector is a write off ..so may be possible to put a tap into it ...thread it ..then proceed with attaching a slide hammer.

in the mean time ...screw driver and wire brush all the crap away, from around it ....make a dam out of ..i don't know; putty / blue tack ..modeling clay..anything ...and fill area with diesel and leave over night .

other solvents a bit more aggressive like cellulose thinners oven cleaner ..may work better ...but with caution . thinners .dissolves rubber and some plastics, oven cleaner attacks aluminium .both though, dissolve built up carbon....

note cellulose dissolving the rubber seals may be to your advantage ..as it will then allow the solvents to penetrate further down.

all the best.mark

[metalworker0]

what I've not suggested is ....turning the engine over on the starter and hope that the compression stroke fires it out ..if that happens, it will fire out, like a bullet from a gun, so put a shovel or something over it .

you need to disable other injectors ..you don't want it starting up.

not suggested it ..as i don't know what the other end in the cylinder is doing as you may have unscrewed it ..so piston may hit it .


all the best.mark

[nicwest]

I forge steel for a living, wack a lot of stuff about generally ., got a pretty good idea how stuck this is, I was even dubious I'd break the swiveling attachment of the proper slide hammer, don't think it's worth trying anything that isn't really solidly attached.
The injector is long since dead I'm sure. The centre of the body is hardened as a tried to drill it to get a screw extractor in . Maybe the heat drew the termper enough to get that or a tap in .but it would be better to disassemble it properly and use the thread in the body of the injector to put the propert adaptor in. .

I've pryied open the seal and poured some wd40 down the side of the body, that should have pooled in the right place. Can try cellulose thinners if I'm not getting anywhere.

Tried turning it over but that does nothing. It's in tight. I'm not sure if I've even managed to rotate it at all yet or I'm just screwing and unscrewing the tip of the injector in and out.

[metalworker0]

well , if its done a lot of miles maybe its time to take the head off ..and give everything attention.

all the best.mark

[sherwoodcycles]

You could unscrew another injector and count how many turns it is until the lower section is screwed on.


This might sound daft, but once screwed on properly, you could try tapping the injector back into the engine (if you get my drift) and see if it suddenly develops a bit of looseness. If it's got a bulged tip, you might push the bulge back in a bit.

[sherwoodcycles]

If you are going to try turning it over to 'fire' it out.....use a spanner and turn the engine over by hand past all the tdc, in case all the fluids have leaked past (if they are able to) just so you don't hydrolock it.

[nicwest]

As a belated update I finally got the stuck injector out. Despite buying the tool to disassemble the injector and screw in the relevant plug for the slide hammer I couldn't shift that either. Ended up welding on a nut and screwing in the slide hammer , completely over engineered, and it shifted first two of the slide hammer.

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Then finally I couldn't get the copper washer out , I screwed tsos in but they kept stripping out when I pulled up. Completely glued in with soot down the sides , So I made a circular cutter to remove the soot between washer and injector port wall .over engineered again but worked perfectly.

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Recut the seats, put it back together ( with a new to me injector)
It ran fine but still leaked oil , which was why I started this in the first place had assumed it was caused by the engine being pressurized by the blowing injectors, so timing chain cover and crankshaft oil seal today that seems to have fixed it

[metalworker0]

Excellent work and good explanations, should any one else have this trouble ---- well done!

did you drop any swarf in the cylinder ..how did you get that out?

all the best...mark

[nicwest]

Thanks, it did look pretty terminal at times! I used lots of oil on the re seating tool so the swarf didn't go far- was very light cuts so more like dust than actual swarf. Lots of rags swabbed mist of it out, I guess some went in, but was tiny bits of aluminum doubt it did much harm.

Vans old I just uncover more problems every time I look , done the timing chain /oil seal today discovered water pump o ring is weeping.

[sherwoodcycles]

Awesome update. An old friend of me said you can spray whippy cream into the cylinder when recutting and hoover it out once done. I don't know if he'd read that or done it, but it sounded plausible!

[knobby1]

Awesome update. An old friend of me said you can spray whippy cream into the cylinder when recutting and hoover it out once done. I don't know if he'd read that or done it, but it sounded plausible!

Just cover the cutter with vaseline or grease and the swarf will stick to that when you pull the cutter out.

Lord Knobrot